By Iris Edén Santiago
Special for The Star
Everything gender-fluid. No sparkle. Very little color. Just undeniable superb tailoring and ample attention to construction. And deconstruction.
Lanvin, the oldest couture house in Paris, presented its SS23 collection this week. It was all about the fabrics: silk tulle, wool gazar, organza cloqué and silk soutache, among others. The textures are either raw or highly refined, always fabulous.The looks are subdued but memorable! Models paraded down the runway in different moods and looks. We saw sheer, semi-sheer, silky, papery, crisp, iridescent and wrinkled. One reaction: the designs make you want to go backstage to get close and touch the clothes.
Artistic director Bruno Sialelli presented suits for men and women in black, ecru, biscuit and creamy yellow. Except for a few accents in blue and orange, everything was done in a neutral palette.
The stars of the show were the interesting tops in macrame. Embroidered with tiny silver flowers and worn with sleek trousers and 3-D skirts, these textured tops are boho chic and fantastic. Also great? Garments in eel skin and sexy mesh tops for both sexes.
“Taking direct inspiration from spring, clothes are sensual, direct and pure,” said Sialelli. “Materials explore the sensorial encouraging touch, feeling and including emotion.”
The sheer organza suit for men was daring, a first for me. Only the risky and confident can wear that edgy new look.