• The Star Staff

Why wine? Why Burgundy? Why now?


By Eric Asimov


I had a lot of reasons not to write this column. For one, it stretches back to the other side of the divide, before the pandemic, when the wine panel was able to convene and taste together without trepidation.


It seems unreal to recall sitting down in unmasked fellowship on a chilly day at the end of February. We had the pleasure of tasting village reds from the Côte de Beaune, the southern section of the heart of Burgundy, all from the deliciously drinkable 2017 vintage.


As usual, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by two guests, Katja Scharnagl, chef sommelier at Le Bernardin, and Matthew Conway, the wine director and a partner at Marc Forgione and Peasant.


So much has changed. Now, the future of these and many restaurants is uncertain, as are the fate of millions of jobs and livelihoods.


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