36 hours in Vieques.

By LUIS FERRÉ-SADURNÍ

Vieques, a 20-mile-long isle just east of Puerto Rico’s main island, has long attracted in-the-know travelers with its raw beauty and uncrowded beaches. Since Hurricane Maria crippled it in 2017, closing its only luxury resort, the W Hotel, Vieques has quietly bounced back, retaining its wild, no-frills charm while filling the void with a flourishing tableau of smaller, sustainable hotels focused on wellness and ecotourism. A culture of preservation is entrenched on Vieques: The coasts and forests once used by the U.S. Navy to practice bombing — a decades-long practice that ended in the early 2000s after protests and global condemnation — are now largely protected from large-scale tourist development. Today, feel Vieques’ rugged thrill as you drive on winding roads to secluded white-sand beaches, past the hundreds of horses that roam freely.

ITINERARY

Friday

2 p.m. | Visit a wildlife refuge

Drop off your bags and drive to the southeastern coast, part of the largest national wildlife refuge in the Caribbean. Some of Puerto Rico’s most beautiful beaches are on this 14,671-acre expanse in the east, transferred by the Navy to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in 2003. Start at Playa Caracas before driving to Playa La Chiva and Playa La Plata. All three are beloved for their white sand and clear water, perfect for snorkeling. The beaches are remote (you’ll most likely lose cellular service). Bring water, an umbrella and snacks, which you can buy at La Tienda Verde, a grocery store outside the refuge. The Navy has cleared unexploded munitions in this part of the refuge but continues to clean up sections fenced off to the public, so stay on the marked paths.

6:30 p.m. | Dine with a sea view

Have dinner in Esperanza, a small but lively beach town that largely caters to visitors, with shops, open-air bars and restaurants. Check out the local vendors selling handmade crafts and jewelry on the waterfront promenade (known as El Malecón) as you take in the views of the Caribbean Sea. Book a table at Placita, the restaurant at El Blok, a modernist hotel with a concrete, curvy facade inspired by the island’s coral reefs. Get the boquerones, or anchovies, on garlic toast; the fried pork belly; and the churrasco steak with zesty chimichurri sauce and a side of rice and beans.

9 p.m. | Go nighttime kayaking

Cross the street to meet your tour guide for Vieques’ most popular attraction: kayaking on a bioluminescent bay. The ethereal shine of Mosquito Bay comes from a high concentration of microscopic organisms that emit a bright blue-green light when agitated — by a paddle, for example. Tours cost around $65 per person (try Jak Water Sports). Opt for a clear-bottom kayak and watch the water sparkle beneath you. Try to book your tour close to the new moon: The darker the night, the brighter the water. Look up and you might also catch shooting stars. You’ll get muddy, so bring sandals and use DEET-free mosquito repellent to avoid harming the organisms that make the bay glow.

Saturday

8 a.m. | Begin your day with yoga

Book a $15 yoga class at Finca Victoria, a bohemian, eco-friendly hotel and ayurvedic retreat built in 2019 on a farm that was devastated by Hurricane Maria. The daily yoga lessons are taught on a wooden deck tucked in a lush canopy. Practice your mountain pose over sweeping views of the island’s forest. If you’re not staying in the hotel’s cabin or treehouse rooms, a $95 day pass gets you access to the grounds, its pool, a vegan breakfast, a glass of cava and the yoga class. Don’t skip the cardamom-infused coffee.

10:30 a.m. | Explore the island

Start your tour of western Vieques with a quick visit near the airport to a more than 300-year-old ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in local Taino culture. Drive past the abandoned military bunkers (once used to store munitions) on the way to Playa Punta Arenas, a secluded beach at the end of a dirt road on the western tip of Vieques. Finish with a stop at a cluster of mysterious boulders where archaeologists unearthed the 4,000-year-old skeletal remains of a man believed to be one of Puerto Rico’s earliest known inhabitants.

2 p.m. | Try freshly caught fish

Head north for lunch at El Norte, a seafood restaurant built atop a fish market. The restaurant, opened in 2024 by Jorge Cruz, a Vieques fisherman, serves fresh local fish. The Puerto Rican-owned restaurant stands out on an island where many of the restaurants, hotels and tourist-centric businesses are owned by mainland Americans who have settled on Vieques over the decades. Take in the dockside view over bacalaítos, a classic Puerto Rican appetizer of fried cod ($7), and fresh grouper ceviche marinated with mango and parsley ($19). The restaurant is known for its overflowing, shareable platter of fried hogfish, grilled lobster, and a savory conch and octopus salad (starting at $99).

4 p.m. | Go riding on the beach

The most scenic way to take in Vieques’ natural beauty and ecological diversity is on horseback. Book a ride with Esperanza Riding Co., which offers group rides ($90 per person) and private rides ($150 per person). Saunter through pastures and meadows that spill onto iconic beaches: Playa El Cocal, named for its plethora of coconut trees, and Playa Negra, a striking beach known for its black volcanic sand. A guide will teach you about Vieques’ flora and fauna before leading your horse on a short uphill trot. Finish the ride with a hilltop vista of Sun Bay Beach, a picturesque crescent of golden sand.

6:30 p.m. | Sip sunset drinks

Watch the sun set from the outdoor deck at Melao Social Club, a sophisticated cocktail and tapas bar on a manicured hill with one of the most peaceful views on Vieques. Sip the sangria ($10) or a craft Puerto Rican beer ($4 to $9). If you’re in the mood for a spicy cocktail, try the Humo y Fuego, or Smoke and Fire: mezcal, spicy chile liqueur, guava and orange bitters ($17). The haunt is part of Lejos Eco Retreat, a hotel that opened fully last year, where suites built into minimalist shipping containers blend in discreetly with the hillside landscape.

8:30 p.m. | Enjoy fine dining

Dinner at El Quenepo, the island’s longtime fine-dining restaurant, feels tropical and timeless. Sit at a dimly lit table by the Spanish colonial arches, past the large wooden doors that open to a bar that feels lived in, under ceiling fans that turn lazily over palm decor and colorful paintings. The creative dishes are infused with Caribbean flavors. Try the beef tartare (served smoky, using a small glass dome) with crispy fried plantains, or tostones, and quail egg ($20); the braised goat masala with local cheese and housemade labneh ($34); and the grilled swordfish with basmati rice, crab fritters and a pineapple coconut curry sauce ($37).

Sunday

8 a.m. | Have breakfast

Eat breakfast in Isabel Segunda, the largest town and the administrative hub of Vieques, where you can get a glimpse of local life. For an authentic Puerto Rican breakfast, go to Panadería La Viequense, a bakery counter where residents line up early for their cafe con leche, fresh bread and more than a dozen sandwich options. Try the media noche, a sweet, eggy loaf generously stuffed with pork, ham, Swiss cheese, mustard and pickles ($11.16). For a sit-down experience, snag a patio table at Rising Roost or Mesita, two popular joints that serve salads, omelets and hearty breakfast bowls.

10 a.m. | Learn some history

On your way to the airport or ferry terminal, stop by Fortín Conde de Mirasol, an unfinished Spanish fort built in the mid-1800s that overlooks Isabel Segunda. The history museum and archaeological exhibit inside are temporarily closed because of roof repairs. But if the fort is reopened when you visit, meander past its rusty Spanish cannons — which guard Vieques (nicknamed Isla Nena, or Little Girl Island) — for a scenic view of the town below. Peer across the beaming blue hues of the Atlantic Ocean and you’ll spot Puerto Rico’s main island, which locals refer to as La Isla Grande, or the Big Island.

KEY STOPS

The remote beaches in the island’s national wildlife refuge, especially Playa Caracas and Playa La Chiva, are ideal for disconnecting.

El Malecón, a seaside promenade, is great for a brisk sunset stroll before sipping daiquiris and pina coladas at the open-air bars in Esperanza.

Sun Bay Beach is Vieques’ main public beach (or balneario), with bathrooms, a small restaurant, picnic tables and tranquil waters for long swims.

WHERE TO EAT

Placita is the buzzy restaurant at El Blok Hotel, serving contemporary Puerto Rican cuisine a few floors below a rooftop bar with a panoramic view of the Caribbean.

At El Quenepo, the island’s premier upscale restaurant since 2007, eat pan-seared octopus and grilled swordfish with a waterfront breeze.

El Norte serves catch-of-the-day seafood, including conch and fried hogfish.

Melao Social Club, a cocktail lounge and tapas bar, is perfect for eating pork-loin empanadas and sipping rum cocktails with a soaring view.

Panadería La Viequense is a bakery where residents flock for coffee and pan sobao, a sweet Caribbean bread.

Rising Roost is one of the busiest breakfast and brunch spots, with an outdoor patio blocks from the ferry terminal.

Mesita is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner in a shaded patio with a fountain and free-roaming chickens.

Tin Box is a shack beloved by locals and visitors for its mix of sushi, barbecue and margaritas in an open-air setting.

WHERE TO STAY

Hix Island House is an eclectic, 19-loft-style hotel made up of concrete, brutalist-style hillside houses, with splendid views. Designed by Canadian architect John Hix, it has rooms ranging from $230 to $450 during high season.

Lejos Eco Retreat is a 13-room boutique hotel made up of small, modern suites inside sleek shipping containers with ocean views. The 10-acre, hilltop property has an infinity pool, a bar and manicured grounds. Rooms start at $290.

Casa de Amistad is one of many budget guesthouses on Vieques. The quaint, nine-room inn, in Isabel Segunda, is powered by solar panels on its roof. Rooms start at $154.

Short-term rentals are scattered throughout the island. Stay in Esperanza if you want to be walking distance from bars and restaurants.