By IRIS EDÉN SANTIAGO
Special to The STAR
Is there life after Alessandro Michele?
One of the most anticipated shows at Men’s Fashion Week in Milan was, of course, Gucci. It was the first collection presented by The House after creative director Alessandro Michele’s exit late last year. And fashionistas, critics and investors couldn’t wait a minute longer.
To the rhythms of Marc Ribot’s “Ceramic Dog,” models paraded in what seemed a very toned-down collection from what the Italian label had been serving for the last couple of years. Michele’s feathers, bling bling, theatricals and maximalism were nowhere to be seen. A new beginning for Gucci?
Stripped of Michele’s excessive looks and with Kering head Francois-Henri Pinault confirming Marco Bizarri would lead the brand’s future, guests were treated to very safe, basic and, I would say, highly commercial looks where supersize jackets, long coats, skinny pants and fluffy sweaters reigned. With the exception of purple, yellow, blue and some coral, the palette is very subtle. Signed by Gucci’s in-house team, the proposal clearly addresses high-end retailers and customers who value quality and designers’ craftsmanship but shy away from heavy glitter, ruffles and provocative ensembles designed for Harry, not Larry. This is a collection of menswear essentials, with a contemporary twist. And a little boring.
We absolutely adored the relaxed suits in black and gray houndstooth with detachable elements that could turn trousers into shorts and jackets into stylish vests. Genius. Also loving the GG slouchy boots in a plethora of colors like pink, indigo, green, red, tan and charcoal. Boots are still big in 2023, and the more colors, the better. Another fabulous item? Horsebit loafers and Princetown slippers: preppy and cool.
“Various decades and contrasting aesthetics inspired the House’s Fall Winter men’s collection,” according to Gucci’s notes.
Along with the basics, Gucci presented gender fluid blazers and delicate papery tops. Trendy pieces like metallic leggings, patent leather garments, leg warmers and furry handbags added a fun touch. Loving the crystal-embossed GG denim pants. Overall there were hints from the 1980s and some rock ‘n‘ roll vibes a la Mick Jagger.
One piece that did remind me of Michele’s point of view: the hand-embroidered sequin jacket in white. Huge paillettes sewn one by one in artistic formations that moved and danced back and forth on the runway in an almost musical way. Flaky, a playful conversation piece!