Armani Privé’s love of couture
By IRIS EDÉN SANTIAGO
Special to The STAR
While Chanel revisited the splendor of camellias, Giorgio Armani decided to reinvent the rose for his Fall Winter 2023 Privé Collection. And so the Italian Maestro gave us roses, rosettes, buds and petals in every size and texture in tones of gold, charcoal, red and his favorite, black.
Armani called the collection, “Le Temps de Roses,” a “carnal, seductive, mysterious bloom of red roses. Glossy lacquered roses, embossed on surfaces in a pattern adorned with graphic black and brilliant accents of gold.”
“A journey from West to East through elongated silhouettes, in a collection that reinterprets the most iconic of flowers without resorting to trite romanticism.”
And yes, roses were created and sewn to everything, from jackets, stoles and lapels to hems, earrings, shoes and hats. Could the House of Armani have gone too far with the one flower? Maybe.
Exquisite cigarette pants and straight-leg trousers in soft champagne and muted silver were modeled with a variety of embellished boxy jackets and jacquard blazers for a polished and sophisticated look. Loving the understated look of muted metallics with a little bit of crystals and a dash of beadwork. This look is perfection: lustrous fabrics, narrow silhouettes and monochromatic brocade details. Nothing excessive, no added volume, just fabulous evening wear.
The 67-piece collection, presented at Les Invalides in Paris, included velvet vests, heavily beaded tunics, figure-forming strapless sheaths, architectural dusters and fluid skirts in gold with dropped waist.