By Iris Edén Santiago
Special to The Star
Since his first proposal for Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière has injected the luxury label with sophistication, identity and personality. His 2023 Cruise Show in La Jolla this week did not disappoint.
The impressive concrete structure of the Salk Institute was the perfect backdrop for a collection full of vision, power, magnetism and imagination.
Look after look, Ghesquière brought designs that evoked memories of Sarah Connor from “Terminator,” images from “Dune,” and replicas of Xena; only better, amplified, more glamorous. These are not girly clothes but garments with attitude and energy for the audacious. At first the collection may seem just a little too close to a sci-fi movie set. But to the artistic director’s credit, the looks are skillfully put together to project an urban feel, delivering that street style that new generations adore. It is not difficult to imagine women -- mostly celebrities? -- rocking his looks.
Models, some with almost no makeup at all, were channeling goddesses, warriors, knights, nomads, monks and deities, all at once. A luxury tribe nonetheless. Impeccable fabrics such as the finest cottons, silks, jacquard, tweed, denim and wool were selected.
Futuristic designs that include boxy coats and chic winged boleros, in combinations of gray, sand, black and chocolate with fabulous detailing from metallic accents, sequins, crochet and leather are just fantastic. As is the genius draping over criss-cross tops and bodices, the dense hooded garments, and the brilliant cowl neck tops, coats and oversized dresses.
Born in Comines, France, Ghesquière presented exceptional and clever skirt designs to match the medieval looks: mini, draped or deconstructed. They all work. Kudos!
We must also comment on the shoes, sleek and original. Wow! Knee-high boots and sneakers in glassy gold and silver metallic finishes. Just fabulous. The perfect companion to round up his innovative concept.
Now for the belt. Well, not my favorite accessory in the styling. Models wore skinny leather knot belts over bare midriffs that reminded me of gothic leashes. Not crazy for the belt. Did however appreciate the clever pops of color. Cobalt, lime, yellow, orange and a little red added interest to the collection, mostly defined by an earth tone color palette.