By Melissa Clark
I was raised to believe in savory tomato salads. My mother ritually dressed them with garlicky, mustardy vinaigrettes, heavy on the tang, with pungent notes from olives, blue cheese, anchovies or canned tuna. The sweetest thing I ever saw paired with raw tomatoes during my childhood was corn, but only once. It was an article of faith for my mom that it was a cook’s duty to add contrast — and tomatoes were already sweet.
I lived by this credo for decades — until one hot August afternoon when I was introduced to my very first tomato-watermelon salad in a friend’s backyard. There was grilled rare steak, buttered corn, bowls of fresh blueberries. But I only had eyes for the giant mound of sunset-hued salad gleaming like rubies in the sun.
From the first bite, I felt my world shift. With the mellow chunks of watermelon now anchoring the sweetness, the tomatoes were free to reveal their savory side, flaunting an almost mineral edge under their flurry of flaky salt. Finished with good olive oil and a scattering of herbs, it was still a salad of contrasts, just of a gentler sort. And I’ve been creating versions ever since.
There are three simple tenets for making tomato-watermelon salads. First, choose the ripest produce you can get. Then, salt the tomatoes — but not the watermelon — at least 15 minutes before assembly. Salting seasons the tomatoes thoroughly and brings out their juices, which mingle with the dressing and flesh it out. Finally, add the dressing slowly and sparingly; the succulent fruit doesn’t need much.
Taking a cue from my mother’s love of the sharp note, for this iteration, I added anchovies. Not whole, obvious anchovies, which can be divisive, but discreetly melted into olive oil with some garlic. Then I used the sizzling fat to toast a handful of breadcrumbs, which I sprinkled over the watermelon and tomatoes along with sliced olives and red onion. The result is a sweet and briny salad, with a mingling of textures: soft, crunchy and nubby.
You can make the breadcrumbs a few days in advance, but don’t add them to the salad until just before serving so that they keep their snap. That crisp texture is a crucial counterpoint to the juiciness of the other ingredients. As my mother taught me, it’s a cook’s duty to add contrast.
Tomato-watermelon salad with anchovy breadcrumbs
Slightly sweet and very savory, this juicy, colorful salad is perfect for summer, when tomatoes and watermelon are at their peak. Briefly marinating the tomatoes helps season them thoroughly and draws out their juices, which lend a soft, round note to the tart sherry vinegar in the dressing. Note to anchovy-avoiders: Their presence in the breadcrumbs isn’t obvious or assertive. They melt into the oil, leaving behind just a hint of their saline, umami character. Serve this as a side dish to grilled or toasted meats or fish. Or, to make it a meal, you can add crumbled goat cheese or feta, but it would also be nice with a can of tuna flaked over the top or some chickpeas mixed in.
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
1 pound mixed tomatoes, large tomatoes cut into 1-inch wedges, cherry and grape tomatoes halved (about 2 1/2 cups)
1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, more as needed
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
1 garlic clove, grated or finely minced
2 anchovies, chopped
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, more to taste
3/4 cup diced watermelon (1/2-inch pieces)
1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
1/2 cup torn fresh basil and mint leaves
Feta or goat cheese, crumbled on top (optional)
Preparation:
1. Add cut tomatoes to a medium bowl. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes and a pinch of salt. Let marinate for 15 minutes to draw out the juices.
2. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Stir in garlic, remaining1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, chopped anchovies and a small pinch of salt. Let the anchovies bubble and melt into the oil, about 2 minutes.
3. Stir in the breadcrumbs until evenly coated in the anchovy mixture. Toast, stirring until the crumbs are golden brown (careful, you don’t want the garlic to burn), about 2 to 3 minutes. Pour crumbs into a bowl, tossing to cool them. Taste and season with salt if needed.
4. In a small bowl, whisk 1/2 teaspoon salt into the sherry vinegar. Whisk in remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil until the vinaigrette emulsifies. Taste for and add more salt or vinegar if needed.
5. Add the watermelon, olives and red onion to tomatoes. Toss with some of the vinaigrette, adding more gradually as needed. The vinaigrette should coat the salad well but not overwhelm it. Spoon the salad onto a platter. Scatter basil and mint on top. Sprinkle with anchovy breadcrumbs at the last minute so that they remain crisp, and top with crumbled feta or goat cheese if you like.
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